The Four Skin Types: Why There’s No “Best” Skin Type and How to Care for Each
In esthetics school, there are days when you sit in class learning the theory behind your craft—the foundations and knowledge that shape your understanding of the field. Then, there are practicals, where you apply what you've learned in a setting designed to mimic the real world. Sometimes, these practicals and lessons happen on the same day; other times, they’re separated, with one day dedicated to studying in class and another to hands-on practice.
Practicals allow students to work on real clients, performing services they would typically pay a licensed professional for but at a fraction of the cost. At my school, for example, facials cost only $24—or $12 with a Groupon! In northern Mississippi and the metro Memphis area, a 45- to 60-minute session usually runs between $85 and $200. These low prices attract clients, giving students a valuable opportunity to practice techniques we had just learned hours—or maybe a day—before.
One day in class, we covered skin types, how to identify them, and various skin conditions accompanying each type. After the lesson, we moved to the practical room, which was set up like a mini spa. It could fit about seven or eight facial tables, separated by curtains hung from the ceiling to create a sense of privacy, almost like a medical clinic.
In this space, you could hear the soft sounds of spa music, the gentle hum of steamers, the click of magnifying lights, and classmates shuffling in and out of the "kitchen" area to grab products or supplies—sometimes chatting a little too loudly. There was also the murmur of conversations between students and clients as we performed consultations, gave skin analyses, and worked through each step of a facial.
While working, I overheard a classmate tell her client, “You have oily skin, so that's good.” I shook my head. Even though I was only three months into esthetics school, I knew one thing for sure: we should never tell a client that a skin type is “good” or “bad.”
It was clear that during our lesson, this classmate had taken away the idea that oily skin—because it can age more slowly—was somehow superior. But that kind of thinking is misguided; we all age, regardless of skin type. And while oily skin may age more slowly, it’s also more prone to breakouts. Every skin type has its pros and cons, and as estheticians, it’s essential to communicate in a way that empowers clients, rather than making them feel judged or self-conscious about their skin.
I wanted to correct my classmate, but I knew I wasn’t the right messenger. She and I didn’t mesh well; in fact, she was part of a group that would later bully me. (I was bullied by several women in school, and one day, I’ll share more about my experience.) Instead, I decided to discreetly mention it to one of our instructors. Without naming names, I explained what I’d overheard. My instructor shook her head of red curls, confirming that my classmate’s comment was inappropriate. I felt validated knowing I was right, but it was also a learning moment. How we talk to clients matters, and as estheticians, we should never make them feel as though one skin type is better than another.
With that in mind, let’s dive into the different skin types. What defines them? What are their characteristics? I’ll start with my skin type: dry.
Dry Skin
Also known as xeroderma, dry skin produces very little sebum, the oil that naturally occurs in your skin. Because of the lack of oil production, it leaves the skin feeling tight and in need of extra care. This type of dryness happens when the skin’s natural oils and moisture are low, leaving the outer layer, known as the stratum corneum, lacking hydration.
Symptoms of Dry Skin:
Skin that feels tight or rough
Itchiness (also known as pruritus)
Flakiness, which can give an ashy appearance
Slight to severe peeling or scaling
“Dry riverbed” cracking, especially on the legs
Fine lines or cracks
Skin tone that may look reddish on lighter skin and grayish on darker skin
Deep cracks that may even bleed
Treating Dry Skin
Moisturizers are the go-to treatment for most types of dry skin. They soften and smooth the skin, prevent cracking, and help restore the skin’s natural protective barrier to lock in moisture. Moisturizers come in various forms—like ointments, creams, lotions, and oils—and are often packed with ingredients such as emollients, which soothe and hydrate, and hyaluronic acid, which boosts moisture levels.
Creams are especially popular for dry skin because they absorb quickly, leaving the skin feeling soft and hydrated. They protect sensitive skin, preserve natural oils, and help prevent dehydration by sealing water into the outer layer. Apply a quarter-sized amount of your favorite cream or rich moisturizer and massage it into the skin to see these benefits in action.
Oily Skin
Oily skin is characterized by an overproduction of sebum, the oil naturally produced by your skin. While sebum helps protect and moisturize, too much of it can leave the skin shiny and prone to clogged pores and acne. People with oily skin often have larger pores, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin).
Symptoms of Oily Skin:
Shiny or greasy appearance, particularly in the T-zone
Large, visible pores
Frequent breakouts or blackheads
Makeup or skincare products may not stay on as well throughout the day
Treating Oily Skin
Balancing oil production without over-drying the skin is key to managing oily skin.
Gentle Cleansing: Opt for a gentle cleanser with ingredients like salicylic acid, which helps clear out pores without overly stripping the skin.
Non-comedogenic Moisturizers: Use lightweight, oil-free moisturizers that hydrate without clogging pores. Ingredients like niacinamide can help regulate oil production and soothe the skin.
Oil-Control Products: Consider clay or charcoal masks once or twice a week to absorb excess oil and keep the T-zone balanced.
Combination Skin
Combination skin is unique in that it combines both dry and oily areas on the face. Typically, the T-zone is oily, while the cheeks or other areas may be dry or normal. This mix can make it challenging to find products that work well across the entire face.
Symptoms of Combination Skin:
Oily areas (especially the T-zone) alongside dry or normal patches
Visible pores in the T-zone but smaller pores elsewhere
Dry, flaky spots on the cheeks or around the jawline
The tendency for certain areas to be prone to breakouts while others feel tight or rough
Treating Combination Skin
The key to treating combination skin is addressing the unique needs of each area.
Multi-Masking: Use a clay mask on oily areas to control excess oil, and a hydrating mask on drier areas to add moisture where needed.
Balanced Moisturizers: Choose lightweight, hydrating products like gel-based moisturizers that won’t clog pores but provide moisture for dry areas.
Gentle Exfoliation: Regularly exfoliate with a gentle product to remove dead skin cells without over-drying certain areas or causing more oil production in the T-zone
Normal (Balanced) Skin
What’s often referred to as “normal” skin is skin with a balanced level of oil production. I prefer to call it “balanced” skin because all skin types are normal—each simply has different levels of oil production. Balanced skin has an even distribution of natural oils across the face, resulting in a smooth texture with minimal imperfections. This skin type is typically low maintenance, but a regular skincare routine is still essential to keep it healthy.
Symptoms of Balanced Skin:
Even skin tone and smooth texture
Minimally visible pores
Few blemishes or imperfections
Generally balanced—neither too oily nor too dry
Treating Balanced Skin
People with balanced skin benefit from a simple, consistent skincare routine to maintain their natural harmony.
Daily Cleansing: Cleanse with a gentle, non-stripping formula to remove dirt and impurities without disrupting the skin’s balance.
Hydrating Moisturizers: Use a light moisturizer with hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid to keep skin soft and smooth.
Regular SPF: Sunscreen is essential for protecting balanced skin from UV damage, which can lead to premature aging. Look for a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
By shifting the term from "normal" to "balanced," we better capture the essence of this skin type, which reflects steady oil production rather than any standard of “normalcy.” All skin types are unique and perfectly normal in their own way.
Sensitive Skin
In the words of Mercedes Moné, “Listen to mía .” Sensitivity is not a skin type; it’s a condition describing how the skin reacts to products, environmental factors, or other stimuli. Sensitivity can occur in any skin type—dry, oily, combination, or normal—and is not directly related to oil production.
Symptoms of Sensitive Skin:
Redness or flushing
Itching, burning, or stinging sensations
Dryness or flakiness in reaction to specific products or environments
Prone to irritation or allergic reactions
Sensitive skin requires gentle care and soothing products to prevent irritation and reduce redness. Because it is not determined by oil production, you can have any combination of sensitivity with dry, oily, combination, or normal skin.
Dehydrated Skin
Dehydrated skin is often confused with dry skin, but it’s essential to note the difference. Dehydrated skin lacks water, whereas dry skin lacks oil. Anyone, regardless of skin type, can experience dehydration, which is a temporary condition. Dehydrated skin may feel tight and look dull or even shiny if it tries to overcompensate for water loss by producing more oil.
Symptoms of Dehydrated Skin:
Tight, rough feeling
Dull or tired appearance
Fine lines that look more pronounced
Oiliness despite tightness, especially if the skin is overcompensating
Treating Dehydrated Skin
Hydrating Serums: Look for serums with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which attract and retain water in the skin.
Water-rich diet: Staying hydrated by drinking water and eating hydrating foods can support skin hydration from within.
Moisturizers with Humectants: Use moisturizers that contain humectants, which attract moisture to the skin, along with occlusives to seal it in.
Conclusion
There is no superior or inferior skin type; each has its characteristics, benefits, and challenges. Your skin type isn’t something you can choose or change—it’s based on your skin's natural oil production, and it simply is what it is. Understanding your skin type and its unique needs is crucial for creating a routine that supports your skin’s health and balance. Whether you have dry, oily, combination, or balanced skin, recognizing the difference between skin types, sensitivity, and dehydration will help you make informed choices, treat your skin with care, and feel confident in your routine.
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Sources
Healthline, AAD
Mayo Clinic, AAD
AAD, Harvard Health Publishing
Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (JCAD), AAD
American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI)
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