Beauty and Body Pioneers: Merle Norman

January 15, 2025

Beauty and Body Pioneers: Merle Norman

Beauty and Body Pioneers

Merle Norman

My Reverie *listen while you read*

A couple of years ago, I worked at a Merle Norman store. While my time there presented some challenges, it also provided valuable learning experiences that contributed to my growth as an esthetician and massage therapist. Although I don’t often discuss this chapter of my career, it’s worth reflecting on what I gained from the opportunity.

One of the main reasons I took the position was the chance to expand my skills in cosmetic services. Prior to this role, I hadn’t had many opportunities to perform cosmetic services beyond basic lash and brow tints. At Merle Norman, I was able to explore a broader range of services, including makeup application, spray tanning (which I loved!), and body waxing, as I had been limited to facial waxing at my previous job. I was also able to provide massages, as I had just earned my massage therapy license. These opportunities allowed me to diversify my expertise and gain confidence in offering services I hadn’t had the chance to perform before.

However, this experience also taught me the importance of carefully evaluating job opportunities. At the time, I didn’t fully understand the value of my previous position, and I left a higher-paying job with consistent clientele to work at Merle Norman. It was a decision driven by my desire for growth, but it came with unexpected challenges. Looking back, I’ve learned to weigh both the professional and financial aspects of any career move.

While there were aspects of the workplace environment that didn’t align with my professional values, I’ve chosen to focus on the positives. For example, I discovered my passion for spray tanning and learned about Aromatiques, a fragrance line I still appreciate today. These small but meaningful takeaways remind me that every experience, no matter how difficult, offers something valuable to carry forward.

Starting this series has given me a deeper appreciation for the legacy of Merle Norman. Learning about the brand’s history and products has provided me with a new perspective that goes beyond my personal experience. Though my time at that store wasn’t ideal, it’s part of my journey, and I’m grateful for the skills and insights I gained along the way.

Without further ado, here’s my second entry in the Beauty and Body Pioneers series: Merle Norman.

It’s 1887, Queen Victoria has celebrated her “Golden Jubilee,” marking 50 years on the British throne, construction on the Eiffel Tower has begun, Anne Sullivan has started teaching Helen Keller, and somewhere in Logansport, Indiana, on January 15th, Merle Mozelle Nethercutt is born.

Merle Nethercutt later became Merle Norman when she married Andrew Norman Gullickstead on May 20, 1913. The two had met the previous year, in 1912. In 1919, Merle and Andrew Norman relocated to Santa Monica, California. Merle attended college, where she studied chemistry, and this education laid the foundation for her later work in developing skincare products. She began experimenting with formulations in her kitchen, blending her knowledge of chemistry with her vision for high-quality cosmetics.

By 1923, Merle began experimenting with cosmetics, creating products in her home, and distributing free samples to her neighbors. Merle’s nephew, J.B. Nethercutt, transported products to clients and helped establish new markets, showcasing Merle Norman’s commitment to quality and customer satisfaction. In the early 1930s, she created three signature products that laid the foundation for her business: a cleansing cream, Miracol (a skin-rejuvenating treatment), and a powder-based foundation. In 1931, at 44, she opened her first studio with an investment of $150, equivalent to approximately $2,858 today. This innovative approach of "try before you buy" became a hallmark of the Merle Norman brand and set it apart from competitors.

By 1934, the company had expanded to 94 franchises across the United States, predominantly owned by women. Merle Norman’s decision to franchise was driven by her desire to empower women through business ownership and to meet the growing demand for her products. This innovative approach not only popularized the franchise model in the beauty industry but also provided unprecedented opportunities for women entrepreneurs during that era.

Merle Norman also pioneered the franchise model in the beauty industry. Her studios, predominantly owned and operated by women, provided opportunities for financial independence and entrepreneurship during a time when such prospects were limited. By 1935, just a few years after launching her business, Merle Norman had established ten franchises, a testament to her visionary leadership and the demand for her products.

Merle Norman stepped down from active involvement in the company later in life, but her influence remained strong. She passed away on December 31, 1972, leaving behind a thriving business that continues to honor her innovative spirit. Today, Merle Norman Cosmetics is a lasting testament to her contributions to the beauty industry and her dedication to empowering women.

Reflecting on Merle Norman’s life and legacy, it’s clear that her entrepreneurial journey was groundbreaking. She not only created products that addressed real skincare needs but also redefined how beauty products were marketed and sold. Her commitment to innovation, personalization, and empowerment continues to inspire beauty professionals and entrepreneurs around the world.

Happy Birthday, Merle Norman. Your legacy continues to shape the beauty industry and inspire those of us who follow in your footsteps.